Chamonix in May

Panoramic from the bridge at the Midi station.
Panoramic from the bridge at the Midi station.

May 6-25, 2017

What a trip is all I have to say to start.  

In November 2016 I headed to Chamonix, France to feel out a seemingly unbelievable opportunity.  That trip was my first to Chamonix and I didn’t get a peek at the riches that the area has for mountain scenery and fun.  The clouds hung low for the duration of that trip and snow fell frequently.  Since that date things have accelerated significantly and at the beginning of May it was time to return for a longer and more productive trip to solidify the gel that has started setting.  In short the opportunity was to work with Blue Ice, a small Chamonix based climbing company.  I would go along with Bill Belcourt to discuss opening an additional office in Salt Lake City.  We would head the hardgoods design effort here in SLC and softgoods would continue out of Chamonix.  Six months after the project kicked off we are six strong in Salt Lake and augmenting the team of 13 in Chamonix.  Stay tuned to see what we’re working on…

As for the trip.  Adam and I headed out at the beginning of May just as one of the team from France was leaving a visit to the US.  The itinerary was to visit a number of suppliers, climb, ski, and live in France for the bulk of May.  Check, check, check, and check.

Looking up the cable for the telepherique.
Looking up the cable for the telepherique.

In Nov. ’16 I didn’t get to witness the scale since the place was socked in and we didn’t get out for any climbing.  This time however, our ride in from Geneva left us with a clear view of the magnitude of topography that is Chamonix.  The elevation at the cable car, téléphérique as it’s called, in town is 3,379′ (1030 m).  The top of the Aiguille du Midi which the téléphérique brings you to is 12,604′ (3,842 m).  Mont Blanc, the highest point in Europe, is 15,774′ (4,808 m) and only 3.4 mi (5.4km) away.  I thought that Salt Lake City had some of the best relief in the world and it is only half of that of Chamonix.  The scale is mind blowing.  Looking up at the peaks from the center of town almost hurts your neck in how high you have to look.

While there was quite a bit of working on the trip we were able to get out and do some fun in the hills and mountains.


Skiing the Grand Envers variation of the Vallee Blanche

Ablon Sport Climbing

Cosmique Arete

2017-01-21 thru 22 Porter Fork and Promise Land

Brett breaking trail the last little bit before we switched over.
Brett breaking trail the last little bit before we switched over.

January 21-22, 2017

Well what a goddamn mess is all I have to say.  The canyons were screwed, no police screening cars getting up canyon and no snow removal.  These added up to a mess trying to get up into Little Cottonwood.  We scrapped our original plan and decided to head toward Millcreek and ski there with Kelly.  We ended up doing a bunch of skinning and very little skiing.  The surprise storm, predicted to be 4-5″ overnight turned into 8-10″ at the house with high precipitation rates, was even more in the canyons.  It was all very light, which was good, but very sensitive.  We ended up at the end of Main Porter Fork and just switched over and skied out because of the sensitive snow.  Still a fun day out and the toboggan run out was fun.

The next day we skied Promise Land with Brett, a friend out from CT, but now who lives in Colorado.  Conditions weren’t quite as pleasant.  In between storms the skies cleared a little, but the window shut quickly.  Winds picked up and temps were cold.  We switched over before the summit of 10,420′.  The run down was pretty darn good.

Desert Shield 2016


In full aid mode around the corner.
In full aid mode around the corner.

November 19-20, 2016

A couple years ago Aaron and I had a hairbrained idea that we’d do some aid climbing Zion.  The problem was neither of us knew how to aid climb much so that trip was a bit of a bust.  I’ve still wanted to do some aid climbing on a big-wall down there but hadn’t had anyone who knew the game to go along with.  A couple weeks back I went with Matt Berry to do Desert Shield (5.11a C3).  He’s been ticking off the classics down there slowly and upping the aid difficulty and this would be his first C3.

The route begins with some mandatory free climbing for three pitches that bring you to a possible bivy ledge.  The ledge has a small grill installed into the rock with an ice screw.  It isn’t often that you get to sleep on a ledge and grill steaks so we opted to go heavy and do that.  The alternative would be to fix ropes the first day, stay in town, then come back the next day to finish it off.

I did the first three pitches, poorly.  P1 is moderate and didn’t have much difficulty, just a bit of wandering climbing.  The second pitch is the 5.11a one.  It is a great 170 ft pitch of climbing with face, slab, and crack.  My head wasn’t screwed on properly and I ended up making it a marathon of a hangdog.  Pulling, tensioning in, french freeing, basically all sorts of shenanigans to just get up it.  This was unfortunate because it was a great bit of climbing that I can do, I just wasn’t able to at the time.

Being the leader I hauled and belayed Matt up.  We dropped our stuff off at the bivy ledge and then Matt go to the aid climbing for P4.  While not necessary to do for this pitch, he wanted to get into the groove and prepare for the harder pitches.  He missed the anchor for P4 and went to P5, with heinous rope drag of course.  So bad that he had to rap down the rope he fixed just to clean the gear.

With the work done for the day we settled into our bivy to drink beers and sip whiskey.  The ledge is large enough for two plus, and is protected from the outside by the pinnacle of rock that forms the ledge.  This allows going unroped to be a safe option since you’d have to fall up a three foot barrier in order to fall off the ledge.  Nevertheless we opted to rope in for sleeping as there was some slopiness to the ground towards squeeze chimneys on either side.  The night was pleasant without any wind or precip.  

Home sweet home for the evening.  The ledge is big enough and protected enough that unroping is safe, though we did stay roped at night when sleeping.
Home sweet home for the evening. The ledge is big enough and protected enough that unroping is safe, though we did stay roped at night when sleeping.

The next day we jugged up the fixed ropes to get to the real aid climbing.  P6 starts off to the left of the massive slightly overhanging shield of rock.  This pitch is a bolt ladder going from easier ground out onto the overhanging rock and in full exposure to the rest Zion.  Matt lead the pitch quickly and even made a couple hook moves as necessary to reach the bolts.  For me following this pitch was a little heady since you’re going from a nice ledge into hanging terrain and traversing slightly right to boot.

Once getting out onto the main face the full value of exposure is obvious.  We were 180′ or so above our bivy ledge which was 350′ or 400′ off the valley floor–with nothing but air between my legs it was exhilarating.

Matt chugged on the next pitch which was one of the C3 pitches consisting of small brass offsets for progression and protection.  This route hasn’t been freed as far as I know and I don’t see how it ever could be.  There’s no features to the face and the crack is only a couple quarters wide in many areas.  Matt had no noticeable difficulties to me on the pitch.  He wasn’t fast, but methodical and tested every piece before moving to it.

The beginning of the small offset nut section.  Some of the nuts are about 1.5 quarters thick.
The beginning of the small offset nut section. Some of the nuts are about 1.5 quarters thick.

The eighth pitch is much like the first but a little less consistent in the crack.  By this time in the day we had some other climbers sharing my hanging belay and the clouds started getting dark.  We could feel some rain and the other party decided to bail given the rain and the additional wait it would take to get to the top with us in front of them for the last pitch.  Part way up P8 Matt noticed it was raining a little and we decided it would be prudent to bail.  He was at a bolt (a shitty one), and we were running a little late on time anyway.  He fixed a couple extra small pieces and lowered back to the belay where we started to rap down to our bivy to collect the rest of our stuff.  The raps down to the bivy were two double rope raps and because the wall was slightly overhanging created about +20′ of space between you and the rock as you went down, exciting!

We packed up and were bummed that we didn’t finish the route entirely, but I think it was the right call to bail.  Matt was at a good spot to do it and wet sandstone is fragile and is dangerous to climb on.  Perhaps I’ll go back to finish it but at least I’d like to go back to do the second pitch clean.

Indian Creek October 2016

Erik enjoying a brew and the sunset behind the North Sixshooter.
Erik enjoying a brew and the sunset behind the North Sixshooter.

October 29-30, 2016

Indian Creek is a world renowned climbing location.  Utah’s stunning desert scenery, endless sandstone splitter cracks and the piles and piles of cams to get up them.  Despite this I’ve had a conflicted opinion of the area.  I don’t frequent Indian Creek as much as some and the last time was almost a year ago.  There are a number of reasons for my critical view of the Creek and each time I go down there my feelings are reinforced.

First, and perhaps the least popular reason why I don’t sing from the mountain tops about how good the creek is:  monotony.  Who loves a splitter crack, everyone right?  Sure.  As awesome as perfect hands sounds for 130′, once you’ve done it, it sort of loses its novelty.  Generic Crack (5.10-) and Supercrack (5.10) are a good examples.  My Creek aficionado friends don’t bother with these routes.  Jam-jam torque-torque, rinse and repeat.  Does that mean that I don’t want to climb a crack like that?  No, but I don’t want to do it every weekend between October and the end of November.  “But there are so many other sizes of crack, and it is rare that a route takes only one size cam for its entirety, Pete!”  Very true.  However when the pro list is 5-#1, 4-#2, 2-#3.  You can’t tell me there is a whole lot of variety on the route.  As the saying goes “variety is the spice of life” some variability makes things interesting.  How much fun would a treadwall with a hand crack be?  Not much fun in my opinion.

“Working out the beta” for a route is something that rarely happens in the Creek.  For sure there are the occasional routes with some face holds, a wide bit, or a changing corner, that require some thought.  I did a route called Funny Farm (5.11+) during this trip which fit this description.  A dwindling finger tip crack in a left facing corner has a bolt once the crack disappears.  None in our party could figure out the beta to work through this section.  We all aided on the bolt and pulled through that spot.  To the best we could tell it involved a hip scum to stem transition none of us could do.  This type of climb is in a small minority at the Creek.

In my opinion, climbing at the Creek doesn’t make you a better climber.  It makes you better at climbing splitter desert cracks.  There is certainly some carryover to other rock types.  If you can ring-lock in sandstone, then the same move on granite will be a bit easier.  However the applicability to other rock types is minimal in my opinion.  No one I know who can get themselves up a 5.12 finger crack in the Creek can bring that accomplishment to a 5.12 granite crack–that is unless they are already a 5.12 climber across the board.  If you’re sending 5.10 or 5.11 on granite, and you get up a 5.12 in the Creek doesn’t mean you have a chance on a 5.12 granite finger crack.  For many years I was focused on traditional climbing and eschewed clipping bolts.  I’ve realized that the best and most well rounded climbers I know aren’t Creek fanatics, they clip bolts on limestone, plug gear on granite, climb ice, pull cobbles in Maple, and spend the occasional weekend in the Creek.  Diversity in climbing increases your repertoire of skills to succeed in more areas.  The more climbing areas that are accessible to you, the more fun you can have.

Crowds.  As the pejorative saying goes, “Indian Creek, best crag in Colorado.”  Or “How do you know it is springtime in the Creek?  All the license plates turn green.”  Colorado’s license plate is green mountains silhouette against a white sky.  In the 4 years of climbing in the Creek the crowds have gotten worse–from Colorado and Utah.  Many of the weekends I’ve been there are popular weekends anywhere, Halloween and Thanksgiving.  However the crowds are increasing, just as they are across the climbing world everywhere.  The blessing and curse of increased popularity in climbing.  For areas of like Indian Creek with limited oversight this is a big problem.  

Just getting to a crag is a problem.  Limited, usually unmaintained, and certainly unmanaged parking at most crags creates a cluster fuck of parking.  Cars parked all cattywampus, once you’ve made the typically semi gnarly drive out to a particular crag and there’s already seven cars you are kind of committed to climbing in that area.  So you park in the sagebrush, as little as you can anyway, and hump up to the crag.  As you hike up you see another Tacoma pull in next to you, or across some dubious spot that will make it difficult for the existing vehicles to get out.  

Once you get up to the crag the next crux is confronted–finding a route to climb.  While Mountain Project says there’s about 1,000 routes in the Creek it is rare you can walk up to any given crag and have your pick of the routes.  Since the ante to climb at the Creek is 5.10, there are very few routes easier than that, and not many people can climb 5.12 at the Creek, the crowds get compressed into the 5.10-.11 range.  Hours long top rope queues from groups of people with five, six, or seven people in them–which I have been guilty of too.  Since the party of seven only has maybe two leaders it means that anything they climb will be taken for a couple hours or more.  Many crags have much more undeveloped climbable terrain too.  I’d be willing to bet that they aren’t developed because many of the lines aren’t quite as splitter, diverging from the romantic ideal of Indian Creek.  Route development is a thankless, difficult, and expensive activity.  More choices, perhaps even expanded into the moderate grades, wouldn’t solve anything though.  If more climbs were available, especially moderates, it would mean increased attendance, which is sort of not possible given the limited parking.  

Almost no one day trips the Creek.  From Salt Lake it is 5.5 hours if you don’t have traffic.  More typically on a Friday afternoon it will be 6-6.5 hours with traffic, food, and gas stops.  From Colorado it is shorter, Grand Junction climbers only drive about 2.5 hours.  Since very few are there for only the day it means that everyone else has to stay somewhere.  Creek Pasture, Superbowl, and Hamburger Rock are the “easy” camping areas to get into.  These fill up the quickest on a good weekend since they require neither a high clearance vehicle nor skills to drive a normal passenger car off-road.  Hamburger Rock has charged a fee for a while, but as of September 1, 2016 Superbowl and Creek Pasture are charging as well.  Some of the entitled climbing community think that this outrageous [1], [2], [3].  Apparently construction and maintenance of sites, campground roads, fire rings, and most importantly toilets, is something that doesn’t require money.  Saying that taxes should take care of this is a naive position to take.  Users must financially support their recreational areas directly.  

While the fees haven’t been in place long, my experience this weekend has me wondering how long it will take before there is a major issue with camping in the Creek.  Since less people are interested in paying the $5/night to camp at the easy campgrounds they will migrate to more difficult, but free areas.  Bridger Jacks camping requires either higher clearance or some skill in driving off-road so it fills up a little slower, but will still be pretty full on any given weekend.  This weekend it was very full, with most sites having 2-3 cars or more.  In addition to this the rising popularity of camper vans has people staying in non-camping parking areas such as the Beef Basin lot.  Arguably since there’s no tent it should be fine for a van to stay overnight in a parking lot like that.  However, when there’s a dozen or more vans and sleeper-cap trucks overnight in the lot, how long will it be before there’s an access problem?  Similarly I witnessed large groups of people camping at trailheads.  Specifically this was at the first parking area for Cliffs of Insanity.  There were about 4-5 vehicles with with folding tables lined up like a buffet line, hardly low impact or Leave No Trace compliant.  

All dispersed camping requires full pack-in pack-out, including solid human waste.  I’d be willing to bet there is a very small percentage of users doing this.  I will be quick to admit that I have dug catholes when I couldn’t wait for a proper toilet.  However, I have recently realized that WAG bags aren’t expensive nor all that gross to use, even multiple times.  For those not willing to buy them, there are homemade alternatives.  With hundreds of people on any given weekend how long will it be before there’s a human waste problem?  I’m sure some people might argue there’s already a problem in this area.

So enough bitching.  Utah’s desert areas are an amazing place.  Clearly that is why people visit.  Some of these issues may improve if the Bears Ears National Monument happens.  I am not familiar enough with that plan to comment, but the continued trend in the Creek doesn’t bode well for access.  The solution is more respect for the limited resource, which means financially supporting the area via camping fees, Access Fund membership, following Leave No Trace practices, and perhaps not making quite so many trips there.

Fall Ride with Matt


September 24, 2016

Got out for a great ride yesterday with Matt.  We were supposed to be a trio but Andrew got scared away by the rain in the morning.  We pushed our start time until just before lunch to give things a chance to dry out.  We made the right decision and had a great ride up to Huntsville all via back roads.  The clearing storm made for some wonderful skyscapes, as well as contrast between autumn and the impending winter as seen by the snow up high.  Pics are a mix of my Canon G12 and new iPhone 7 shooting in RAW.  Can you tell which ones are which?

Fourth of July in the Wind River 2016

Temple Peak and Deep Lake from the North Summit of Haystack.
Temple Peak and Deep Lake from the North Summit of Haystack.

July 1-4, 2016

For a month or two leading up to the Fourth of July long weekend Carly and I had been trying to decide on a destination.  We hemmed and hawed, but when it came down to it we decided on the Wind River Range, otherwise known as the Winds.  Are first we were worried about snow and then it was the bugs and then it was the people.  In the end we were able to bypass both the snow and people, but didn’t skip the bugs.

Friday we left from SLC at a less than opportune time, 5:30 pm, but that was as early as Carly could get out of work.  Unfortunately we hit some traffic in Park City of all places.  There was an accident and Google routed us off the highway.  While there must have been a supercomputer crunching the new route as faster, it was horrendously slow.  I think just sticking to the highway would have been better.

As we finally got through Park City and started racking up the miles we ended up in Evanston, WY.  This is a border town which is good for a liquor and food stop.  Our new favorite place in Evanston was closed for the long weekend so we had to settle for Subway.  Trying to make the best use of our time we split up.  Carly headed to Subway while I went to the liquor store, gas, and Autozone (for an extra quart of oil for the CRV).  I was able to do all that before Carly had even come close to getting our food.  The Subway was swamped, there were three workers, but they didn’t have an interest in easing the bottleneck of assembling the veggie portion of the sandwiches.  The bread and meat girl just did her thing.  The cashier, would idly chat to the veggie assembler as the sandwiches piled up in the queue.  Very irritating.

Beautiful sunset on the road to the Wind River Range.
Beautiful sunset on the road to the Wind River Range.

Finally we got to the 50 or so miles of dirt road heading towards the Big Sandy Trailhead.  The weekend’s weather was mixed with a typical alpine forecast of afternoon thunderstorms.  We saw this was true on our way in as it was pretty dark and inclement.  The occasional flash of lightning silhouetted the mountains as we drove.

Getting closer we ended up stopping at the same spot where Matt, Jamie and I had stopped before our Labor Day trip in 2013.  Rather than setting up the tent we slept in the CRV.  Unfortunately, the length of the flattened seats wasn’t quite enough for my six foot frame leaving me with a restless night’s sleep.

Saturday morning we drove the last 20 minutes or so into Big Sandy Trailhead.  Thankfully the lot wasn’t nearly as full as the previous time I was here.  We found a great parking spot just across from the start of the trail and the bathrooms.  While packing our bags and making coffee we spotted our friend Kelly and her partner Vlad.  We knew they were headed up but didn’t know if we’d see them or now.  It turned out they followed us in on the dirt roads as well.  Our other friends Matt and Leanne we saw had hiked in the previous night based on the logbook at the trailhead.

The hike in is pretty easy as the Big Sandy Trailhead is around 9000′ of elevation.  Our objective wasn’t the Cirque of the Towers, which is the popular spot, we were headed towards Clear Lake and Deep Lake.  As we got through the first portion of the hike and reached the end of Big Sandy Lake about 5 miles from the start, we had lunch with Kelly and Vlad.  While eating we could see clouds rolling in and thunder intermittently.  We each parted ways to our respective sections of the range.  While crossing some of the wide open marsh and streams at the east end of Big Sandy Lake, we started getting a few pieces of hail.  We hurried along across the last few streams and under the shelter of a large set of pines.  From here the skies opened up and it hailed for about 30 minutes.  The even reminded me of my hike with Dave and Phyli on Grand Mesa.

After making our way across the open marsh of the far side of Big Sandy Lake we took refuge under some large pines.  The hail and thunder kept going for about 40 minutes.  This storm is when Matt and Leanne had to bail from Pingora.
After making our way across the open marsh of the far side of Big Sandy Lake we took refuge under some large pines. The hail and thunder kept going for about 40 minutes. This storm is when Matt and Leanne had to bail from Pingora.

Eventually the storm subsided enough for us to continue to our camping area.  As we approached Clear Lake and Haystack Mountain we were amazed at the scenery.  The alpine lake and forests are always breathtaking.  The massive west face of Haystack looked wet and we hoped it would dry out enough for climbing the next day.

We found a one of the only flat and somewhat dry spots at the base of the north summit of Haystack.  A few more rumbles of thunder hastened our retreat into the tent while another little cell rolled through.  Thankfully the skies cleared and the sun came out and it was quite pleasant.  Another friend was also headed out towards our direction for some camping.  We were able to get Coty on the radio and let him know where we were camped.  While making dinner he strolled in and joined us in enjoying the view across Clear Lake.

Sunday we woke early and had a quick breakfast of hard boiled eggs and bacon, both pre-cooked at home.  We headed up the drainage to the north of Haystack to reach the exposed ridge and end up at the base of the north face.  While on the ridge the wind picked up.  It was cold despite being sunny.  When we reached the base of what our intended route was we had a hard time standing at times due to the gusty wind.  Another party who was also there for the same route tried to huddle out of the wind in some rocks.  After a little discussion Carly and I decided that our intended route wasn’t as obvious as we’d like, especially with the wind being the way it was.  We opted to go for a very easy, but sure fire way to get to the summit.

Part way up the consilation prize.  Our intendend route wasn't obvious and it was cold and windy so we went with a easy way to the summit.
Part way up the consolation prize. Our intended route wasn’t obvious and it was cold and windy so we went with a easy way to the summit.

After three pitches of climbing, me on the first and third, and Carly in the second, we reached near the north summit.  Resting out of the wind for a few minutes we untied and scrambled over the talus to reach the north summit.  The views were awesome though cold and blustery.  We could see into the Cirque of the Towers and wondered how our friends were doing there.  We summited around 10:30 which allowed us to get back down to camp with plenty of time to retreat to the tent when the eventual afternoon t-storm rolled through.

Coty had hiked around and up to Deep Lake while we were out climbing and gave us a rundown of the area.  We decided that would probably be a good plan for the next day, Monday.  We’d made tentative plans to try and meet Matt and Leanne back at the cars around 1 or 2 pm for beers.

Monday morning came and we slept in until 7:30 or so.  A quick oatmeal and boiled egg breakfast and we headed up to Deep Lake.  The area between Deep and Clear Lakes is a massive slab of granite.  Over the years soil and plants have taken hold, but as we hiked higher the plants gave way to more and more rock.  After about 30 minutes we reached the shore of Deep Lake.  From here was got an unobstructed view of the precipitous face of East Temple.  I really would like to learn more about the climbs on this peak.  I’m not sure that they are within my ability but it is an impressive mountain.

After a short break we continued up the tiny trail towards Temple Lake, which is over a small ridge separating the Deep/Clear Lake drainage from the next one to the west.  The snow melt was in full swing and at times the trail was just a small stream requiring us to tiptoe around it on wet grass.  We reached the top of the ridge and were granted a view down into Temple Lake, which still had ice and snow on it in spots.  The weather was great and the sun was out.  It was a great spot for a snack.  We were completely by ourselves.

Hiking over the shoulder between Deep Lake and Temple Lake.
Hiking over the shoulder between Deep Lake and Temple Lake.

Heading back down to Clear Lake we struck camp and headed out.  Thankfully the way out wasn’t marred by any inclement weather, though we did hear a couple rumbles of thunder.  Getting Coty on the radio we learned we was well a head of us and had just been passed by Matt and Leanne, which meant we’d all get to the cars around the same time.  The seven mile hike went quickly on the way out, though it was a little hot–thank god for the breeze to cool things off and keep the mosquitoes at bay.  We reached the cars and were able to swap stories of the weekend over ice cold beers (thanks to a sweet cooler).  A great end to a mountain weekend.

Ruth Gorge 2016

One of the blankest faces around, the N. Face of Mt. Johnson.
One of the blankest faces around, the N. Face of Mt. Johnson.

April 16-28, 2016

After too long a break I finally went back to Alaska with Matt to attempt Peak 11,300 on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier.  However, as it turned out we never accomplished much in the way of climbing.

Months of training were put in, not just in 2015-2016 season, but also in 2014-2015.  That winter I never even packed a bag for AK, despite having ambitions to go.  Matt had an injury and I was without a definite partner.  Couple that with almost non-existent weather windows that year and I didn’t do anything that season.  Fast forward to this year and we questioned if we should postpone because of unsettled weather forecasts.  We considered the Cascades, we considered pushing things out a few weeks, we considered just rock climbing.  In the end we considered that many hours spent hiking up hills, running and lifting would be wasted if we didn’t give our original plan a shot.  In the end the mind was weakest link.  As a result we didn’t get much more than the top of a couloir.

Conditions also played a part in that there was a lot of snow in the AK Range at the end of March and first few days of April.  We flew in on April 18 and had a string of clear, warm weather.  The result was sluffing of snow on high steep faces, ice fall, rock fall, unconsolidated wet snow in the sun.  All things that aren’t confidence inspiring for climbing.

Finding some friends at the cook tent.
Finding some friends at the cook tent.

The many hours spent in camp were comfortable because of the temperatures and sun.  We got some reading in, some drinking in, and enjoyed the quiet that is the glacier.  We had some good mates on the glacier.  A couple young Germans, Max and Christof; and two Quebecois, Bernie and Martin.  These guys had a bit better luck than we did with climbing, but not too much better.

After only seven days on the glacier out of a planned twelve, we pulled the plug and returned to town.  In a fortunate twist of fate, our friends Kim and Andy, who were in a different section of the range and who had great conditions, were also flying out.  Paul, owner of TAT, was a bit early for our pickup and flew inside camp to give us a quicker load up.

We called for a pick up about a week early. Paul was early on pick up day and helped save us a long walk to the plane by landing basically in our camp. The left wing tip is overhanging our camp. Friends and super-couple Kim and Andy headed out with us.
We called for a pick up about a week early. Paul was early on pickup day and helped save us a long walk to the plane by landing basically in our camp. The left wing tip is overhanging our camp. Friends and super-couple Kim and Andy headed out with us.

The next few days were spent making the Talkeetna Main St. Traverse:  breakfast at the Roadhouse, back to bunkhouse for a few hours of napping, reading, internetting, lunch someplace, commence beer intake, continue until evening and dinner at the brewpub.  Rinse and repeat.  Talkeetna’s a pretty small town.

The Great Chimney on Mt. Olympus

Matt on our P3 which was the last pitch.  This was the only really tricky move.  Luckily there's a nice #2 camalot crack right here.
Matt on our P3 which was the last pitch. This was the only really tricky move. Luckily there’s a nice #2 camalot crack right here.

March 12, 2016

Saturday Matt and I headed up to the Great Chimney on Mt. Olympus.  I’ve spied this line for a while as it is very obvious from the valley and I can even see some it from my house.  The only trouble it is a haul to get up there.  Parking at Neff’s Canyon and hiking up the trail isn’t too bad.  It is the long gully slog that was the tiring part.  Luckily our beta was indicated possible post holing for the bulk of the gully so we opted for snowshoes, which were well worth it.  The climb itself was only three pitches for us.  I think the usual first winter/spring pitch is covered in snow right now.  We tromped up about 400′ of vertical to get from our packs in the main gully to the base of what was exposed chimney.  The first pitch had poor protection and some insecure climbing.  Matt did a great job on this one.  I headed up the deep dark second pitch, which I think is usually P3.  This pitch was a full 60m for us and I took my sweet time doing it.  The pro was tricky and dubious at times .  The climbing was awkward, particularly when stemming and surmounting chockstones was required.  The final pitch was short and relatively straightforward, though the snow was not as well consolidated.  Great day out training for AK.

South Ridge in Early March 2016


March 5, 2016

Eric and I tromped up the South Ridge of Mt. Superior last weekend.  We were hoping for some nice soft corn snow for our way down, unlike what happened last time.  We got stymied again by the weather and conditions.  While we didn’t have to bail early as we did a few years ago, we did have to ski off the north side because the snow on the South Face was icy, and skied out.  Making no fall turns on that type of terrain is no fun.  Along the way up we had similar conditions as last time of rotten cornices and icy snow.  Two points of improvement however.  First is our time was 1.5 hours faster than last time.  Second I didn’t bring go for mountaineering boots for the climb.  I just used my new Scarpa touring boots which worked pretty well.

President’s Day 2016 in Ouray


February 12-15, 2016

Once again for President’s day Carly and I headed to Ouray for some ice climbing.  This time around we also had a couple Matt’s, Eric, and a Leanne joining us.  Our rental house as a bit out of Ouray and technically in Ridgeway, but that didn’t really matter since we had an amazing view of the mountains from our hot tub on the deck!

Saturday Eric, Carly and I headed to the Ribbon (WI4+).  This was the site of last year’s cold and spindrifty climb that Carly didn’t have glasses for.  Luckily we went in knowing the deal this time and dressed accordingly.  Unfortunately we didn’t quite get up early enough and so we had to wait until the party ahead of us finished up.  This party actually turned out to be Berry and his friend so it was all good.

Saturday the three of us headed to Eureka for Whorehouse Hoses (WI5).  This turned out to be a bit of a mess.  Suffice it to say we didn’t position ourselves as obviously in line at the route and as such we got bumped by a couple guides.  While waiting there ended up being something around 18 people either on the climb or at the base.  Luckily we stuck with it and we were able to climb.  The first pitch is really where the money is and I opted for the lower angle, but still relentless 58 m left side.  The second pitch was basically a steep snow ramp.  The third has two options and since it was snowing and the right option looked a bit thin in spots we opted for the left fat side.

Monday once again was spent in the park just getting pumped on steep TR burns.  I was able to TR Tick Tack (M5?) clean three times.  If the last bolt wasn’t covered in baked out ice I probably would have lead it.  Next year I guess.