2021-03-13 Pop Tire Cave Rebolting

March 13-14 and 20-21, 2021

For two consecutive weekends I went out to near Wendover, UT for some rebolting work. Jeremy rallied some folks and raised money to just about fully re-equip a crag he’s been psyched on. While the crag is a cave and in the middle of the desert, the environment for the bolts in the cave is more similar to a marine one. Salt forms on the rock because of the nearby salt flats and/or because of deposits in the limestone itself. I’m not a geologist so I’m not sure. Either way some of the bolts in the super steep cave needed replacing in order to make sure no one would get hurt as time goes on.

The last two weekends were the appointed ones and were pretty good weather wise, though chilly. The first weekend had a bunch of folks coming to help out. Ropes were fixed, lots of holes drilled, and bolts glued. The second weekend saw a bit of finishing glueing and lots of chopping of the old stuff.

The mechanics of rebolting in a cave as steep as this were difficult. Ropes were fixed and whether going up or down the rope to do the work was tough. Ascending a fixed rope on a 60 deg overhang is a lot of work when you factor in having to stop and do work on a bolt while hanging as well as pass fixed draws. Not doing that sort of thing I felt pretty worked from the effort and lack of efficiency in my movement.

It was a satisfying endeavor though, as nearly every boly I pulled was rusty to some degree, many pretty badly. With the addition of full stainless glue-ins for essentially every route in the cave, it should be good for 30-40 years or more into the future.

Climbing Nature & Hiking

2020-11-21 San Rafael Swell

November 20-21, 2020

Just before Thanksgiving we took a little trip to the Swell to get out of the house and experience some nature. We did some climbing but more exploring in this area that we’ve come to love given its beauty and proximity to Salt Lake. Just recently a lot of signs have been put up by the local land manager. This helped us be aware of something just off the road we never knew before, a dinosaur track! We’ve driven by it dozens of times and didn’t realize that just 20 yards from the road is a nice big track in the rock. Very cool to see out in nature right where a some big dinosaur walked many millions of years ago.


2020-10-16 thru 18 Indian Creek

October 16 thru 18, 2020

A long overdue trip to Indian Creek happened last weekend. We spent 3 days and of course got worked. Always a humbling experience out there. I was disappointed by the new influx of the moto crowd. They were riding well into the evening which kind of takes away some of the amazingness of the place at night.


2020-09-05 thru 07 Grand Teton National Park

September 5-7, 2020

With the most peculiar summer drawing to a close with Labor Day we headed once again to Wyoming for some climbing. This time we were focused on some alpine climbing. The weather looked great for this, clear, no rain, and moderate temperatures. For a warm up we did Guide’s Wall (5.8) on Saturday. This is a route I did with Chris way back on my first trip to GTNP. Carly and I also tried to do it a couple years ago but got rained off. This time around we had no problems with the weather other than being a little warm. Typically people rap with two ropes, which we hadn’t brought on the trip. We figured there might be another party that would team up for the double rope raps. As luck would have it at the base just as we arrived was another party, Jess and Seggi that were also climbing with a single rope. They climbed fast, and linked the six pitches into just three. We did the same and it was a great day.

Sunday brought our main objective of Irene’s Arete (5.8). The approach is a good way up Garnet canyon and took us about 3 hours to get to the climber’s trail to the base. Unfortunately the approach didn’t go super smooth and we burned an hour just trying to scramble to the start of the route. Once there we were happy that no one else was climbing the route yet. I started up and got about 50′ up the first pitch and noticed some sunglasses sitting in a little alcove. We’d packed our bags the previous night for a quicker start in the morning. With it being dark when packing Carly had forgotten her sunglasses. Such good luck to come across a perfectly good pair she was able to scoop up and use for the rest of the climb.

The second pitch is where the business started for the route. There is a tooth feature which looks much more difficult than 5.8 since it is a flaring mostly bottoming crack. Luckily there are a couple placements right under the tooth and the feet are good enough that a big reach was able to get me to the sloping hand above. Even better is in that sloping hand hold is a piton to clip. A few more good moves lead to easier climbing above.

Another party came up a slightly different P1 as I was starting P2. Luckily the belays are all pretty spaced out and comfy. We learned that Justin and Tom, the party behind us, were from Bozeman and MSU. The route has a number of variations for almost all the pitches so we were able to climb nearly at the same time.

P3 was an exposed pitch, it started on a rib of the arete going back and forth a little with not much protection. Eventually I went right for a variation on the original line. This line was steeper than it looked but juggy. Definitely some exposure with 1000′ of air below my feet as I pulled some roofs.

A few more pitches put us near the end of the climb, just one more short thuggy section to deal with. This looked not too bad but as I got into it I realized it was more difficult than it seemed. The crack was awkwardly tight and the protection I’d initially placed not great. On top of that there was a breadloaf sized rock which really could have been a thank god jug, but was loose. My first pass at it was a bit scary. After downclimbing and collecting myself I placed a couple better pieces of pro and then went through the difficult section though not with grace. From there it was an easy 200′ to the ridge crest and the summit.

The walk down wasn’t too bad luckily there was a great description of the walk off online which we were able to follow more or less without a hitch. Our good luck with the sunglasses keep going too. We had gone into town on Saturday evening for food and to try and buy bear spray. I have some but had forgotten it at home. It was a busy weekend in Jackson and the usual places were out of spray. I’d resigned that it would be unlikely to see a bear and therefore we’d be OK without some. As we were heading into the descent gully I found a full can of bear spray laying on the ground. Someone must have put their pack down and it had fallen out. I grabbed it and we headed down. Not much more than an hour later Carly was walking down the trail and stopped in her tracks and then turned around and whispered there was a bear and a cub on the trail about 50′ away. I pulled out the spray and removed the safety trigger. Luckily momma bear hadn’t made eye contact with us and was moving perpendicular to the trail. We made some extra noise and watched closely as momma and two cubs walked through the underbrush. They then turned back towards the trail but on a line above us. We took this as a queue to start moving again and away from the bears. We kept a close eye behind us for another 5 minutes as we went down.

After a long day on Irene’s we enjoyed some simple tortellini and italian sausage dinner and a beer. A long but good day. We slept in the following morning, made eggs and bacon then headed towards Jenny Lake for some low key bouldering and enjoying the views across the lake.


2020-08-04 South Ridge of Superior

Weekday life revolves around waking, eating, and working for the most part these days. When there’s no travel to an office it often simultaneously feels like there’s more and less time in the day. I think a commute to a physical office imposes some structure and constraint on time and as a result some amount of focus is required to not waste it and still get all the minutiae of life in. When the commute is gone so to is that constraint and the focus. While I would not argue that I’d like to start commuting 45 minutes each way to really distill what I do in a day, I wouldn’t mind an office to go to 1-2 days a week. Certainly if for nothing else other than some more social interaction.

I still firmly believe that the biggest silver lining, at least for working professionals, about the pandemic is companies where/are forced to work from home. While selling off all office real estate isn’t the next step, there certainly is a need to understand where the optimal balance for workers and companies sits in the blend of work from home and work in an office life.

To break up our routine Carly and I did a lap up the South Ridge of Superior on Tuesday. As per usual the temps were 20 degrees cooler, the sun is behind the ridge for the hiking part of the approach, and the views of the setting sun were awesome. No record breaking time, but just fun enjoying the experience.