2018 Thanksgiving

The alpine route we did in Juniper Canyon, called Armatron (5.9), had some amazing rock that looked like brickwork.

November 21-25, 2018

Once again we traveled to Las Vegas for Thanksgiving with friends and climbing.  With the long drive, made longer by the traffic, I had time to think about the number of Thanksgivings I’ve spent in Red Rocks since moving to Utah–of the seven holidays I think all but two have been in Red Rocks.

This time we upped the comfort factor and stayed in a hotel with some friends.  While the location was close to the strip which made for a longer commute into the climbing areas, it did come with the convenience of being in the city versus our usual primitive camping area.  

We had good weather and climbed a bit of cragging Thursday, alpine days Friday and Saturday, then a bouldering day in St. George on the way home to Salt Lake.  Good times and great friends.

2017 April Fools

Carly admiring the views.
Carly admiring the views.

April 1-2, 2017

Just a quick post to share some images from a recent ski/climbing trip to the desert.  Yup, the desert for climbing and skiing.  Outside Moab, UT are the La Sal Mountains, with many peaks topping 12,000′ they are even higher than the Wasatch outside our front door.  We gambled on the weather and got some fresh snow in the La Sals and enjoyed ourselves exploring a new area.  That day after skiing we camped in Moab and enjoyed a desert sunset.  Awesome place this UT.  

Desert Shield 2016

 

In full aid mode around the corner.
In full aid mode around the corner.

November 19-20, 2016

A couple years ago Aaron and I had a hairbrained idea that we’d do some aid climbing Zion.  The problem was neither of us knew how to aid climb much so that trip was a bit of a bust.  I’ve still wanted to do some aid climbing on a big-wall down there but hadn’t had anyone who knew the game to go along with.  A couple weeks back I went with Matt Berry to do Desert Shield (5.11a C3).  He’s been ticking off the classics down there slowly and upping the aid difficulty and this would be his first C3.

The route begins with some mandatory free climbing for three pitches that bring you to a possible bivy ledge.  The ledge has a small grill installed into the rock with an ice screw.  It isn’t often that you get to sleep on a ledge and grill steaks so we opted to go heavy and do that.  The alternative would be to fix ropes the first day, stay in town, then come back the next day to finish it off.

I did the first three pitches, poorly.  P1 is moderate and didn’t have much difficulty, just a bit of wandering climbing.  The second pitch is the 5.11a one.  It is a great 170 ft pitch of climbing with face, slab, and crack.  My head wasn’t screwed on properly and I ended up making it a marathon of a hangdog.  Pulling, tensioning in, french freeing, basically all sorts of shenanigans to just get up it.  This was unfortunate because it was a great bit of climbing that I can do, I just wasn’t able to at the time.

Being the leader I hauled and belayed Matt up.  We dropped our stuff off at the bivy ledge and then Matt go to the aid climbing for P4.  While not necessary to do for this pitch, he wanted to get into the groove and prepare for the harder pitches.  He missed the anchor for P4 and went to P5, with heinous rope drag of course.  So bad that he had to rap down the rope he fixed just to clean the gear.

With the work done for the day we settled into our bivy to drink beers and sip whiskey.  The ledge is large enough for two plus, and is protected from the outside by the pinnacle of rock that forms the ledge.  This allows going unroped to be a safe option since you’d have to fall up a three foot barrier in order to fall off the ledge.  Nevertheless we opted to rope in for sleeping as there was some slopiness to the ground towards squeeze chimneys on either side.  The night was pleasant without any wind or precip.  

Home sweet home for the evening.  The ledge is big enough and protected enough that unroping is safe, though we did stay roped at night when sleeping.
Home sweet home for the evening. The ledge is big enough and protected enough that unroping is safe, though we did stay roped at night when sleeping.

The next day we jugged up the fixed ropes to get to the real aid climbing.  P6 starts off to the left of the massive slightly overhanging shield of rock.  This pitch is a bolt ladder going from easier ground out onto the overhanging rock and in full exposure to the rest Zion.  Matt lead the pitch quickly and even made a couple hook moves as necessary to reach the bolts.  For me following this pitch was a little heady since you’re going from a nice ledge into hanging terrain and traversing slightly right to boot.

Once getting out onto the main face the full value of exposure is obvious.  We were 180′ or so above our bivy ledge which was 350′ or 400′ off the valley floor–with nothing but air between my legs it was exhilarating.

Matt chugged on the next pitch which was one of the C3 pitches consisting of small brass offsets for progression and protection.  This route hasn’t been freed as far as I know and I don’t see how it ever could be.  There’s no features to the face and the crack is only a couple quarters wide in many areas.  Matt had no noticeable difficulties to me on the pitch.  He wasn’t fast, but methodical and tested every piece before moving to it.

The beginning of the small offset nut section.  Some of the nuts are about 1.5 quarters thick.
The beginning of the small offset nut section. Some of the nuts are about 1.5 quarters thick.

The eighth pitch is much like the first but a little less consistent in the crack.  By this time in the day we had some other climbers sharing my hanging belay and the clouds started getting dark.  We could feel some rain and the other party decided to bail given the rain and the additional wait it would take to get to the top with us in front of them for the last pitch.  Part way up P8 Matt noticed it was raining a little and we decided it would be prudent to bail.  He was at a bolt (a shitty one), and we were running a little late on time anyway.  He fixed a couple extra small pieces and lowered back to the belay where we started to rap down to our bivy to collect the rest of our stuff.  The raps down to the bivy were two double rope raps and because the wall was slightly overhanging created about +20′ of space between you and the rock as you went down, exciting!

We packed up and were bummed that we didn’t finish the route entirely, but I think it was the right call to bail.  Matt was at a good spot to do it and wet sandstone is fragile and is dangerous to climb on.  Perhaps I’ll go back to finish it but at least I’d like to go back to do the second pitch clean.

Indian Creek October 2016

Erik enjoying a brew and the sunset behind the North Sixshooter.
Erik enjoying a brew and the sunset behind the North Sixshooter.

October 29-30, 2016

Indian Creek is a world renowned climbing location.  Utah’s stunning desert scenery, endless sandstone splitter cracks and the piles and piles of cams to get up them.  Despite this I’ve had a conflicted opinion of the area.  I don’t frequent Indian Creek as much as some and the last time was almost a year ago.  There are a number of reasons for my critical view of the Creek and each time I go down there my feelings are reinforced.

First, and perhaps the least popular reason why I don’t sing from the mountain tops about how good the creek is:  monotony.  Who loves a splitter crack, everyone right?  Sure.  As awesome as perfect hands sounds for 130′, once you’ve done it, it sort of loses its novelty.  Generic Crack (5.10-) and Supercrack (5.10) are a good examples.  My Creek aficionado friends don’t bother with these routes.  Jam-jam torque-torque, rinse and repeat.  Does that mean that I don’t want to climb a crack like that?  No, but I don’t want to do it every weekend between October and the end of November.  “But there are so many other sizes of crack, and it is rare that a route takes only one size cam for its entirety, Pete!”  Very true.  However when the pro list is 5-#1, 4-#2, 2-#3.  You can’t tell me there is a whole lot of variety on the route.  As the saying goes “variety is the spice of life” some variability makes things interesting.  How much fun would a treadwall with a hand crack be?  Not much fun in my opinion.

“Working out the beta” for a route is something that rarely happens in the Creek.  For sure there are the occasional routes with some face holds, a wide bit, or a changing corner, that require some thought.  I did a route called Funny Farm (5.11+) during this trip which fit this description.  A dwindling finger tip crack in a left facing corner has a bolt once the crack disappears.  None in our party could figure out the beta to work through this section.  We all aided on the bolt and pulled through that spot.  To the best we could tell it involved a hip scum to stem transition none of us could do.  This type of climb is in a small minority at the Creek.

In my opinion, climbing at the Creek doesn’t make you a better climber.  It makes you better at climbing splitter desert cracks.  There is certainly some carryover to other rock types.  If you can ring-lock in sandstone, then the same move on granite will be a bit easier.  However the applicability to other rock types is minimal in my opinion.  No one I know who can get themselves up a 5.12 finger crack in the Creek can bring that accomplishment to a 5.12 granite crack–that is unless they are already a 5.12 climber across the board.  If you’re sending 5.10 or 5.11 on granite, and you get up a 5.12 in the Creek doesn’t mean you have a chance on a 5.12 granite finger crack.  For many years I was focused on traditional climbing and eschewed clipping bolts.  I’ve realized that the best and most well rounded climbers I know aren’t Creek fanatics, they clip bolts on limestone, plug gear on granite, climb ice, pull cobbles in Maple, and spend the occasional weekend in the Creek.  Diversity in climbing increases your repertoire of skills to succeed in more areas.  The more climbing areas that are accessible to you, the more fun you can have.

Crowds.  As the pejorative saying goes, “Indian Creek, best crag in Colorado.”  Or “How do you know it is springtime in the Creek?  All the license plates turn green.”  Colorado’s license plate is green mountains silhouette against a white sky.  In the 4 years of climbing in the Creek the crowds have gotten worse–from Colorado and Utah.  Many of the weekends I’ve been there are popular weekends anywhere, Halloween and Thanksgiving.  However the crowds are increasing, just as they are across the climbing world everywhere.  The blessing and curse of increased popularity in climbing.  For areas of like Indian Creek with limited oversight this is a big problem.  

Just getting to a crag is a problem.  Limited, usually unmaintained, and certainly unmanaged parking at most crags creates a cluster fuck of parking.  Cars parked all cattywampus, once you’ve made the typically semi gnarly drive out to a particular crag and there’s already seven cars you are kind of committed to climbing in that area.  So you park in the sagebrush, as little as you can anyway, and hump up to the crag.  As you hike up you see another Tacoma pull in next to you, or across some dubious spot that will make it difficult for the existing vehicles to get out.  

Once you get up to the crag the next crux is confronted–finding a route to climb.  While Mountain Project says there’s about 1,000 routes in the Creek it is rare you can walk up to any given crag and have your pick of the routes.  Since the ante to climb at the Creek is 5.10, there are very few routes easier than that, and not many people can climb 5.12 at the Creek, the crowds get compressed into the 5.10-.11 range.  Hours long top rope queues from groups of people with five, six, or seven people in them–which I have been guilty of too.  Since the party of seven only has maybe two leaders it means that anything they climb will be taken for a couple hours or more.  Many crags have much more undeveloped climbable terrain too.  I’d be willing to bet that they aren’t developed because many of the lines aren’t quite as splitter, diverging from the romantic ideal of Indian Creek.  Route development is a thankless, difficult, and expensive activity.  More choices, perhaps even expanded into the moderate grades, wouldn’t solve anything though.  If more climbs were available, especially moderates, it would mean increased attendance, which is sort of not possible given the limited parking.  

Almost no one day trips the Creek.  From Salt Lake it is 5.5 hours if you don’t have traffic.  More typically on a Friday afternoon it will be 6-6.5 hours with traffic, food, and gas stops.  From Colorado it is shorter, Grand Junction climbers only drive about 2.5 hours.  Since very few are there for only the day it means that everyone else has to stay somewhere.  Creek Pasture, Superbowl, and Hamburger Rock are the “easy” camping areas to get into.  These fill up the quickest on a good weekend since they require neither a high clearance vehicle nor skills to drive a normal passenger car off-road.  Hamburger Rock has charged a fee for a while, but as of September 1, 2016 Superbowl and Creek Pasture are charging as well.  Some of the entitled climbing community think that this outrageous [1], [2], [3].  Apparently construction and maintenance of sites, campground roads, fire rings, and most importantly toilets, is something that doesn’t require money.  Saying that taxes should take care of this is a naive position to take.  Users must financially support their recreational areas directly.  

While the fees haven’t been in place long, my experience this weekend has me wondering how long it will take before there is a major issue with camping in the Creek.  Since less people are interested in paying the $5/night to camp at the easy campgrounds they will migrate to more difficult, but free areas.  Bridger Jacks camping requires either higher clearance or some skill in driving off-road so it fills up a little slower, but will still be pretty full on any given weekend.  This weekend it was very full, with most sites having 2-3 cars or more.  In addition to this the rising popularity of camper vans has people staying in non-camping parking areas such as the Beef Basin lot.  Arguably since there’s no tent it should be fine for a van to stay overnight in a parking lot like that.  However, when there’s a dozen or more vans and sleeper-cap trucks overnight in the lot, how long will it be before there’s an access problem?  Similarly I witnessed large groups of people camping at trailheads.  Specifically this was at the first parking area for Cliffs of Insanity.  There were about 4-5 vehicles with with folding tables lined up like a buffet line, hardly low impact or Leave No Trace compliant.  

All dispersed camping requires full pack-in pack-out, including solid human waste.  I’d be willing to bet there is a very small percentage of users doing this.  I will be quick to admit that I have dug catholes when I couldn’t wait for a proper toilet.  However, I have recently realized that WAG bags aren’t expensive nor all that gross to use, even multiple times.  For those not willing to buy them, there are homemade alternatives.  With hundreds of people on any given weekend how long will it be before there’s a human waste problem?  I’m sure some people might argue there’s already a problem in this area.

So enough bitching.  Utah’s desert areas are an amazing place.  Clearly that is why people visit.  Some of these issues may improve if the Bears Ears National Monument happens.  I am not familiar enough with that plan to comment, but the continued trend in the Creek doesn’t bode well for access.  The solution is more respect for the limited resource, which means financially supporting the area via camping fees, Access Fund membership, following Leave No Trace practices, and perhaps not making quite so many trips there.

2016-10-08 Moab

Not a bad view from our campsite during dinner.

October 8-9, 2016

Carly and I headed south to the desert for the first time a while.  One of our friends was having a birthday party and invited a bunch of people to join.  There indeed was a bunch of folks who arrived at the primitive camping outside of Canyonlands National Park.  We elected to set our tent just off from the main group so we could be a little less disturbed from would would prove to be a rackus evening of revelry by the party crowd.  We got a little climbing in on Saturday at Wall St. in Moab.  The climbing was actually quite pleasant and not as crowded as I expected.  Sunday was a short day and we did a hike to Upheaval Dome, before heading back to Salt Lake for a memorial service for Kyle Dempster.  It was a good weekend capped with a somber reminder that even the strongest climbers are not immune to the strength of the mountains.

San Rafael Swell New Routing

New routing on Matt's route Misfire (5.11-) on the Jacob Dylan Wall.

November 21-22, 2015

About a month ago Matt found a relatively undeveloped area in the Swell.  While the zone is within view of another popular area the wall only has a handful of routes established.  We took a weekend to go set up a route.  It should have been more than one route, but we had some caulking gun issues which reduced our efficiency and required a trip to Castledale.  The route Matt put up probably goes at 5.11- with a tough section mid-way up route to gain a ledge rest.  Mostly fingers to tips with a little more thrown in for good measure.

Creeksgiving 2015

While the weather looks great it was cool, as evident by the puffy jackets.
While the weather looks great it was cool, as evident by the puffy jackets.

November 25-27, 2015

Fun times in the Creek.  Carly, Matt, Patrick and I caravaned to the desert the day before Thanksgiving planning to spend 5 days there.  We got a sweet campsite and then went out climbing for the day at a wall called High Horse.  We ended up not climbing too much that day except for Patrick who had an epic battle with a 120′ overhanging #4 sized crack.  While the MountainProject and the plaque at the base called it 5.10+, there’s no way it was 5.10+ with the size it was.  Patrick ended up finishing it with a few hangs and I was able to get some cool photos of him on the route.

2015-11-25_26707-Pano
Patrick working on Standard.

Our campsite got filled with friends of friends of friends and we probably had close to 25 people.  We avoided the crowd and headed to Broken Tooth Wall on T-day with good friends Micah, Hillary, Ixta, and our gang.  I didn’t climb anything all that hard except a long varying hand crack called Gold Crown which was a blast.

Of course we did the whole Thanksgiving dinner.  Carly and I cooked a turkey ahead of time as well as a pumpkin pie and cranberry sauce.  Matt and Patrick brought some other sides and we had a great meal sparing none of the traditional T-Day foods.

Friday I wanted to get a little bit of aerobic in and take a rest day from climbing so Carly and I walked up Donnelly Canyon for a way.  We explored some of the small off shoot drainages and tried to make our way up to the rim.  We got stopped a couple hundred vertical feet from the rim by a layer of rock that made a bit of a steeper cliff band than we wanted to negotiate in approach shoes and no rope.  The weather through the day got cooler and finally the clouds fully covered the sky.  As Carly and I made our way back to the car the wind picked up and some flakes flew through the air.  About 20 minutes later it began snowing.  Our friends made it back to the car and we all headed to camp.  The snow was accumulating and after some thought Matt, Carly and I headed back to SLC to go skiing rather than deal with more less than favorable weather in the desert in the coming days.

2015 Halloween at the Creek

October 30 thru November 1, 2015

Over Halloween Carly and I took a long weekend and went to Indian Creek.  This was our first time in about a year so we were both pretty rusty.  Not that I’m ever up to par for the Creek.  Nonetheless I had an OK weekend.  Leading wasn’t particularly eventful, but I did get on everything from tips cracks and a #5-#6 off-width.  It was great fun and even a week out I’m still nursing my gobies from the OW.

2015 Memorial Day Weekend in Red Rocks

2015-05-25_25677.jpg

May 22-25, 2015

The week before Memorial Day I was in Baltimore for a conference on composites.  I returned late Thursday night and had pre-arranged to take Friday off of work.  Carly luckily had her 9-80 Friday off on that day as well.  We had hoped to go to Colorado to visit with Dave, Phyli and friends, but wet and cold weather plagued the entire West Coast.  Steamboat was forecasted to be in the 40’s and rainy, not much fun.  The Denver crew decided to bail and so Carly and I made a decision to head towards Red Rocks as it was the only place that potentially didn’t have 50% chance of showers.

We decided to stay at the primitive camping area I found during the last time I was in Red Rocks.  This turned out to be really nice as we didn’t see anyone else camping nearby.  While the drive to RR loop road is 30 minutes or more from the camping, it allowed us to access some of the southern end climbing much easier.  Since we figured there would be a lot of people around for Memorial Day we decided to hit lesser known crags and it worked well for us as we didn’t see any other climbers on the two days we climbed.

Unfortunately the rain even got to Las Vegas and we had it rain fairly heavy over Saturday and Sunday nights.  Sunday we got rained off of a climb and ended up heading back to camp and having some beers and playing on the slackline.

While it wasn’t a super productive weekend climbing the routes we did on Saturday were quite good and I had a blast climbing with Carly.