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Climbing

The Great Chimney on Mt. Olympus

Matt on our P3 which was the last pitch. This was the only really tricky move. Luckily there's a nice #2 camalot crack right here.
Matt on our P3 which was the last pitch. This was the only really tricky move. Luckily there’s a nice #2 camalot crack right here.

March 12, 2016

Saturday Matt and I headed up to the Great Chimney on Mt. Olympus.  I’ve spied this line for a while as it is very obvious from the valley and I can even see some it from my house.  The only trouble it is a haul to get up there.  Parking at Neff’s Canyon and hiking up the trail isn’t too bad.  It is the long gully slog that was the tiring part.  Luckily our beta was indicated possible post holing for the bulk of the gully so we opted for snowshoes, which were well worth it.  The climb itself was only three pitches for us.  I think the usual first winter/spring pitch is covered in snow right now.  We tromped up about 400′ of vertical to get from our packs in the main gully to the base of what was exposed chimney.  The first pitch had poor protection and some insecure climbing.  Matt did a great job on this one.  I headed up the deep dark second pitch, which I think is usually P3.  This pitch was a full 60m for us and I took my sweet time doing it.  The pro was tricky and dubious at times .  The climbing was awkward, particularly when stemming and surmounting chockstones was required.  The final pitch was short and relatively straightforward, though the snow was not as well consolidated.  Great day out training for AK.

Matt heading up what was our P1. I think this might be P2 when there's less snow.
Matt going up the first steeper section of our P2. There are chains on skier\'s left.
Working through the upper section of P2. There\'s a committing bulge with marginal gear.
Matt on our P3 which was the last pitch. This was the only really tricky move. Luckily there\'s a nice #2 camalot crack right here.
View out towards the valley. I bet it was in the mid-60\'s down in the valley, but we had much colder conditions.
Rappelling down P2.
Our semi-late start and slow climbing put us back to our packs just as the sun was setting. Our hike out was in the dark, but we were on a definied trail.

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