I got out on some ice over the weekend in two typical locations for Utah ice, however on rarer routes.
Saturday I was in Maple Canyon with Case and scratching around on some steep ice. While some interesting routes are in they have been getting anemic over the last couple of weeks. Utah has been locked in weeks of high pressure and we have cold clear nights and warm sunny days. As a result Maple is getting sublimated without more moisture to refresh it.
Golden Plum (WI5) was a pretty great lead for me. Steep and technical climbing. It had a fair amount of traffic so there were hooks in some places. Top out was thin, low angle, and luckily attached to the cobbles. Case got after Maple Syrup (WI5+). It was melted out at the bottom and a shell hanging on the rock. The long route required a two rope TR. The top was definitely getting sketchy-boomy.
Sunday Nate, Case and I went down to Santaquin to hit a not-seen-in-a-decade route called Mr. Freeze (WI4). The route is two full pitches. The first is rambling and WI3 at most. Second pitch is a similar length pitch and has a little steeper ice. It was actually building a bit since the climb gets a little sun in the afternoon.
Maple Canyon
Mr. Freeze
