President’s Day 2016 in Ouray


February 12-15, 2016

Once again for President’s day Carly and I headed to Ouray for some ice climbing.  This time around we also had a couple Matt’s, Eric, and a Leanne joining us.  Our rental house as a bit out of Ouray and technically in Ridgeway, but that didn’t really matter since we had an amazing view of the mountains from our hot tub on the deck!

Saturday Eric, Carly and I headed to the Ribbon (WI4+).  This was the site of last year’s cold and spindrifty climb that Carly didn’t have glasses for.  Luckily we went in knowing the deal this time and dressed accordingly.  Unfortunately we didn’t quite get up early enough and so we had to wait until the party ahead of us finished up.  This party actually turned out to be Berry and his friend so it was all good.

Saturday the three of us headed to Eureka for Whorehouse Hoses (WI5).  This turned out to be a bit of a mess.  Suffice it to say we didn’t position ourselves as obviously in line at the route and as such we got bumped by a couple guides.  While waiting there ended up being something around 18 people either on the climb or at the base.  Luckily we stuck with it and we were able to climb.  The first pitch is really where the money is and I opted for the lower angle, but still relentless 58 m left side.  The second pitch was basically a steep snow ramp.  The third has two options and since it was snowing and the right option looked a bit thin in spots we opted for the left fat side.

Monday once again was spent in the park just getting pumped on steep TR burns.  I was able to TR Tick Tack (M5?) clean three times.  If the last bolt wasn’t covered in baked out ice I probably would have lead it.  Next year I guess.