President’s Day 2016 in Ouray


February 12-15, 2016

Once again for President’s day Carly and I headed to Ouray for some ice climbing.  This time around we also had a couple Matt’s, Eric, and a Leanne joining us.  Our rental house as a bit out of Ouray and technically in Ridgeway, but that didn’t really matter since we had an amazing view of the mountains from our hot tub on the deck!

Saturday Eric, Carly and I headed to the Ribbon (WI4+).  This was the site of last year’s cold and spindrifty climb that Carly didn’t have glasses for.  Luckily we went in knowing the deal this time and dressed accordingly.  Unfortunately we didn’t quite get up early enough and so we had to wait until the party ahead of us finished up.  This party actually turned out to be Berry and his friend so it was all good.

Saturday the three of us headed to Eureka for Whorehouse Hoses (WI5).  This turned out to be a bit of a mess.  Suffice it to say we didn’t position ourselves as obviously in line at the route and as such we got bumped by a couple guides.  While waiting there ended up being something around 18 people either on the climb or at the base.  Luckily we stuck with it and we were able to climb.  The first pitch is really where the money is and I opted for the lower angle, but still relentless 58 m left side.  The second pitch was basically a steep snow ramp.  The third has two options and since it was snowing and the right option looked a bit thin in spots we opted for the left fat side.

Monday once again was spent in the park just getting pumped on steep TR burns.  I was able to TR Tick Tack (M5?) clean three times.  If the last bolt wasn’t covered in baked out ice I probably would have lead it.  Next year I guess.

Climbing Photography

President’s Day in Ouray, CO



Sizing up Horsetail Falls (WI4).


February 16-18, 2013

So busy right now.  Climbing, working, doing both at the same time, friends from the East Coast coming in a few days, etc.  I unfortunately don’t have time energy to fully post about my awesome trip to Ouray, CO over President’s Day.  Here’s a quick summary instead.

Took a trip to Ouray, CO over President’s Day weekend, which is a long weekend for me at work.  Eric, Matt, and I went.  Ouray is an amazing mountain town.  It is a tiny little hamlet tucked into mountains well over 10,000 feet high.  Snow and great weather made for some amazing views.  We did some climbing just outside of town the first day which wasn’t too hard but a great position.  Later in the day we had some fun on a dry-tooling route.  Eric took a nice little ride from the chains.  But he made up for it later by leading a really fun pitch of wet WI4.



Matt headed up the third pitch.

Sunday we traveled down to Silverton and Eureka to climb Stairway to Heaven (WI4).  Unfortunately our beta on the approach was a little off and we slogged through deep snow and decided to settle on Highway 66 (WI4).  The valley was isolated, the sky was clear, and it was a great day to be in the mountains.  Only burr in the shoe was another party that decided to do the same climb despite seeing us on it first.  Long story but not worth getting into.



A look at the the mecca of North American ice climbing.

Sunday was a fun half day of top roping in the Ouray Ice Park.  For the uninitiated there is a gorge essentially in town.  Years ago people punctured the water line pipe above the gorge to farm ice in the gorge.  Eventually the town realized they could capitalize on this and turn their town into a world-class ice climbing destination.  Now the farming is sanctioned by the town and it brings in a tremendous amount of money for the town.

Great weekend with perfect weather and awesome climbing.

Ouray Climbing




Ouray Ice Park